Arriving in the Marquesas has defiantly been one of the most rewarding and meaningful moments in our lives. The excitement that we greet each day with is partly due to the amazing experiences we have had while exploring these hidden gems and partly from what it took to successfully arrive here. The last few months back on Gaviota have left us with not only the realization of how much we have invested to reach this point but more importantly has reminded us of our purpose for initiating this journey in the first place. After over four years of owning, working on and traveling with Gaviota we finally remember and feel reconnected with what sparked our curiosity for this dream of sailing the world... All of the hard work, sacrifices and time that we have put in, in order to get this far has in some ways clouded our perspective of this life adventure we were so excited for. Whether it was taking time to go home and reflect for a few months or being out in the middle of the Pacific for nearly a month, we are approaching every day with the attitude and clarity we had back when all of this was just a dream!
Crossing the Pacific Ocean has been an anticipated moment since the beginning. After months of preparing for the crossing the day before we left was defiantly not spent as planned but considering our track record it seems pretty fitting! Anchored in Isla Isabella, Galapagos Islands, we did not spend our last day resting, checking the engine, rigging or securing any other loose ends for Gaviota’s month at sea because that would have made to much sense! Instead we spontaneously decided it was time to leave after a day of hiking a volcano and sharing beers and fried plantains with friends. Well, it was half spontaneity and half escaping from the port captain before we would have to check in a pay way to much once again. After making a few last minute stops at the local carneceria, bakery, and fruit and vegetable market we loaded up our skiff and headed out to our boat for what would be the next 23 days. By 8:00 at night we had everything packed up as we crawled into our bed for our last full night of sleep for the next few weeks.
The passage went really smoothly and we fell into our daily routine much quicker than expected. Reading, fishing, baking, stretching and showering became the normal past times as the hours turned into days and the days began to blur together. Our main fear, of becoming stir crazy, with no way to get out extra energy never posed as a problem. Between the rolly seas, heat and lack of sleep we cherished and reserved every ounce of energy we had. With the intense sun gone the nights became our most treasured time of the passage. We will forever treasure the nights spent staring off at the waves illuminated by the moon and the numerous constellations as gaviota sailed along at a consistent 6-7 knots. This passage more than any other we have done allowed us to truly appreciate the solitude that the sea and sky have to offer.
The first Land Ho! Was shouted just before sunrise on our 23rd morning at sea. As we got closer to land and the sun got higher in the sky, the lush cliffs of Fatu Hiva showed their face as the jetted straight out of the ocean. It was overwhelming to look at the lush green cliffs after weeks of staring at nothing but blue ocean and sky for as we could see. We were greeted by a light rain shower and an amazing rainbow as we turned the corner to anchor up in Hanavave bay. Words and pictures can not begin to explain how absolutely gorgeous this anchorage is. Besides just sitting on our boat try to soak in the spectacular island lying in the middle of the Pacific, we spent our time exploring the town and inland terrain as much as possible. We quickly found that the friendly French Polynesians were much more interested in trading for items than they were for us paying for them. A local Polynesian boy, Jon Pierre quickly greeted us and began the bargaining for fruit. They were really interested in trading for perfume and bullets, neither of which we had aboard but we managed to trade some pens and marine supplies. In return we ended up with stalks of bananas, lemons, limes, mangos and our new favorite pomplemuse which are the biggest sweetest grapefruits we have ever tasted! Hiking, attending a local church service, snorkeling, trading with locals and attending our first pig roast are just some of the memories that we will take with us from our first magical anchorage of the South Pacific.
On our way to Tahuata, another island in the Marquesas we were pleasantly surprised when we caught our first fish since Costa Rica. About three miles from the anchorage Brandon reeled in a 4 foot 35 lb Wahoo! It was definitely the biggest fish we have ever pulled up on Gaviota and one of the best. For the next five days we ate fish for breakfast, lunch and dinner along with managing to feed the entire anchorage. It was delicious and so appreciated after quite a while without any meat. After a few days of snorkeling in crystal clear water with 50-60 ft of visibility and a few hikes we took off and decided it was probably time to officially check in to French Polynesia. We are currently at Nuka Hiva checking in and provisioning with the few items that we can afford. Everything is extremely expensive here but we are in heaven with the fresh baked French baguettes that are cheap, warm and delicious. I have never seen Brandon consume so much bread in my life! We are planning on a couple more weeks in the Marquesas and then it is off for the diving and surfing of the Tuamotus! The South Pacific is so full of amazing islands and atolls that we don’t know how we are going to manage to see it all in one season!
